André Mosis - Kingbotho

Suriname is the middle one of the three Guyanas, on the northern shore of the South American continent. When you look at colonial history and the composition of the population, there's more similarity with the Caribbean region, than with continental South America. Suriname differs from its neighbours by the fact that cultural diversity has been conserved to a considerable extent. Dutch is still the official language, but in the streets you hear a "lingua franca" called Sranantongo, which has elements from English, African, Dutch and many other languages. But the original mother-languages are also spoken within cultural groups, such as Surinamese-Hindustani (Sarnami), Indonesian (Javanese), Chinese and several Amerindian and Maroon languages. There are a number of Christian churches, the Hindu religion is an important factor, and the Islam is represented as well (the Javanese and a part of the Hindustani - the last term is purely intended geographically; it refers to former British India from before the segregation into India, Pakistan and Bangla Desh). Part of the Maroons still have a more naturalistic religion, similar beliefs in town are called Winti.
Most of the population lives in the capital Paramaribo, and most of the rest live in the coastal region, in villages and towns along the main road of the country, aptly called the "East-West Connection". In the old days transport went over water though, so most places are also along the river. Curiously enough, it is possible to travel the country from East to West along inland rivers and canals. In this story I will just visit two villages: the Amerindian village Galibi, on the mouth of the river Maroni, and, deep into the interior, the Maroon village of Dritabiki.

Galibi
There are two tribes of Amerindians in the coastal region: the Arowaks and the Caribs. The Arowaks are the oldest inhabitants of Suriname, and invented agriculture there. Long before the Europeans came, the Caribs had arrived, and pushed the Arowaks from their best grounds. The strength of the Caribs was their invention of the sailing ship*. Their largest settlement, capital if you want, is on the mouth of river Marowijne. This place is called Galibi, after an older French name for the Caribs. In their own language, these people call themselves Kali'na, and the place Galibi is called Kupali Yumï, 'the tree of the forefathers'. The settlement actually consists of two merged villages, with the Surinamese names of Christiaankondre and Langamankondre. These proud and taciturn people live in spatial houses*, that stand, well separated, in a long row along the river. The Indians here are still roughly 75% self-supporting: producing their own food, cloths, tools, etc., although, of course the influence of western culture is strong: they are Catholics now, and their children go to school. The main occupation is fishing (on the ocean). They decided to do a bit of over-production here: a co-operative business was formed, and they sell the surplus catch in town. This way the Galibians hope to stay in control of their own future, and not become a tourist attraction. For themselves, they like their fish smoked*. This goes down nicely with a 'beer' (sr: kasiri), which they make from the poisonous sap of the Cassava root. A perfect combination - if you have the stomach for it... These people invented the sail (and they roamed the Caribbean sea with it), but the wheel was unknown to them: they don't even use it for pot making*. Even so, they do make nice pots*, as you can see here, using different kinds of clay*. There are regular agricultural fields (Cassava is a major crop), and between the houses are several useful plants, like this Papaya tree*. This tree, with its ornamental leaf-scars, shows that it is not only Monocots like Palms that have this habitus: longs stems with few branches and a whirl of large leaves in top. I was honoured with an invitation to a festivity* in Galibi. There was some heavy dancing going on. The whole village attended, and there were many guests. The picture shows a very stately row dance, to the rhythm of a large drum*, whose sound could be heard for miles around.

Maroons
The Maroons are the descendents of escaped slaves, who sought and found refuge above the rapids (sr: sula), where the Dutch ships could not go. The elegant "korjaal"* of the Maroons (an elaborate dug-out canoe) is still a major means of transport in these regions. The different groups of escaped slaves regained their African tribal way of life, and founded villages along the rivers. Each village has its own oral history, and the people still know exactly which plantation their forefathers came from. Also the peace treaty of 1760, which gave them autonomy, is well remembered. Again, Cassava (Manioc) is a major part of the diet. Production of the flour (Tapioca) from its roots is a delicate matter, because the sap of the plant is poisonous.

First, the roots must be peeled, then grated*, and finally the pulp is mashed in this instrument, the matapi*. This will be hung in a tree, with a stone tied to the lower end, and it will act as a press, squeezing the sap out.
Nowadays the Maroons are mostly christened, but I had the privilege of spending some time with those who proudly called themself 'Heathens'. Here's a central shrine* in Dritabiki (nl: Drietabbetje), the capital of the Aukaner tribe (Okanesi, also known as Ndyuka or Dyuka), at the Tapanahony river. And this is a fertility god* of the Saramaccans, who live along the Suriname river. The fiery eyes of this god are the beans of this tree: Ormosia spec.* (sr: Kokriki). You'll find the tree in Maroon as well as Indian villages, the beans are also used for necklaces etc. Associated with this god is a ritual festivity to celebrate when a child becomes an adult. Music* like this goes on all night then, some people go in trance and walk over hot ashes... Another festivity is the 'the day of the dead'. I do not know exactly what that is, but I do know that when someone dies, the burial ceremony is not the last thing to do. It takes a year or longer before the soul actually leaves this earth, and this event must be accompanied with the appropriate rituals. Like the offering of tortoises*, the sr: Busi-sekrepatu or Geochelone denticulata to be exact. This is done here by the united 'Captains' (Kabiten) of the Aukaner tribe (these Captains are the heads of villages or clans).

The meat will be eaten later - nothing is wasted. And then there was music. Lots of music. Drums* of course!
The last picture I would like to show you has special meaning. It is Kwaku*, freedom fighter of the slaves, and this little statue has a central place in Paramaribo. His day is 'Emancipation day', the first of July, celebrating the abolition of slavery (in 1863). But here you see him on November 25, 1975: the first day of Independence for Suriname. The Maroons also came to town to celebrate this day, and here is some of their party music*.Visiting Suriname, 1975 - '76